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Heck Terrorism, anti-Americanism, religious fanaticism. It was humbling to admit being nervous as I approached the Iranian border station.
It seemed almost comical in its disrepair, and yet it was the only government authority in this isolated desert some thirty kilometers east of the Turkish town of Doğubeyazit.
Virginity is seen as a marker of decency, of good family stock and morals.
In the narrow, twisting clutch of roads where Tahmineh lives, revealing your hair even to an uncle or a male cousin is not acceptable.
"They have missed out on so much.""We could do anything we wanted [pre-revolution]," said another."We could travel, drink, have girlfriends, live our lives.We cannot even hold hands with our girlfriends.""It is my life," said another man, "and if I want to drink whisky I should be able to drink whisky."Chatting with two young women and a young man in a tea-house I was asked if I thought Iran was boring."No, not at all," I answered.My interrogator flicked suggestively at her hijab."Oh," I said, realising what she meant, "I thought you meant boring for tourists.""Iran is like a prison," interjected the man, crossing his wrists as if in handcuffs.Tahmineh believes there are rising numbers of girls like her, who are from religious or traditional families but prepared to experiment sexually before marriage.“Most girls in my area think that just being in a confined space with a boy is a sin, but my best friend has had la-paee sex, and I know lots of girls from less strict families who are allowed to hang out with boys, but who are still expected to be virgins, so they all have anal sex instead.” This phenomenon is so ubiquitous in Tehran that anal sex has become the butt – pun intended – of many a Tehrani joke.